Its Piraterc Review time and the chosen candidate for your reading pleasure is from none other than the new kid on the block the Agama A8 Evo having waited a bit before conducting the review allowed a few cool evolutions to be made and as they are rolling changes they simply incorporated into the kits as they come off the assembly line.
Its always like christmas when a new kit arrives at your door there was something extra special about this delivery as included in the box was one of the latest Bullett engines. I cant wait to run this badboy!
The Nemo Racing Product lineup is starting to evolve into one hell of a great offering with a fantastic all round package that is evolving at an alarming pace. So rather than stick some old piece of tat into the car there was no choice but to use a Bullett B-218 to power the Agama A8 EVO.
They are really starting to appear at all decent racing events (In the recent Euros B no less than six of the brittish team drivers ran a Bullett engine), I'm sure that before long they will take the uk racing scene by storm! as the racers start to change. To me one of the biggest driving forces behind this engine is affordability and being based locally in the UK you will always be able to get the relevant support and technical backup.
Manufactured in Japan by the worlds leading model engine manufacture, the B-218 engine comes with fantastic performance & pedigree as a given. The BULLITT B-218 benefits from the latest technology and manufacturing available in the RC Engine industry, and brings this to Market at the best possible price.
Take pictures with the agama setup clutch etc assembled on the bullett engine
current run in instructions and specs
From the Team.... (No point me trying to tell you how to do this)
Bullitt B-218 Break in & Tune
There are many run in procedures but this is what The Nemo Racing Team use & recommends, it is tried & tested making for an easy reliable break in procedure. Build your BULLITT with your clutch system using new gaskets on your exhaust. Clean out & flush through you fuel tank, filters & fuel lines replacing the fuel lines if required. Mount engine to your car & attach wheels , the break in procedure is done totally on the start box so the wheels add weight for this purpose. The break in procedure takes about 45 minutes so find somewhere away from houses to avoid causing any annoyance & for your own protection use ear plug or ear defenders.
To ensure you always follow the latest advice hot off the Team Briefing table i have provided the link
BULLETT run in procedures :HERE
So lets get started on the actual building of the car in question the one thing that really jumped out at me was the inclusion of a full set of tyres not what one typically gets in today's kits. A really nice touch and great to see included in a high end kit.
VP-Pro axman VP Pro Axman Tire! Made of VP PRO unique “Flexx”pro-racing compound that ensures outstanding wear properties for a longer life. Special “Soft” tread design provides maximum traction on different track surfaces,especially good for loamy track with loose dirt.
Before commencing its best to charge up that electric screwdriver and use the special power tool tips to build the car as this really reduces the sore hand that typically develops when building a kit. Additionally it gives me the time to ship off the body shell to our local painting wizard Keith from Kifopaint so that he can work his magic and turn out another high class paint job.
One thing that does stand out is that the manual shows you how to build the differentials in simple picture format but unless you actually page through the instruction manual to page 38 where there is the initial base factory settings you wouldn't know what weight differential oil to start off with. Not a big deal really and something that you should do by default before starting the actual build.
The diff's are different from the normal differentials they are not the standard round shape but more a rounded square shape the internals and out drives are the typical bits one would naturally expect to find inside the diff on most mainstream race kits. Besides this they go together fairly straight forward and without any issues or tricky assembly.
With my diff now fully assembled and ready for my chosen silicone oil to fill them to approximately 2mm over the x bar had to ask how much to fill the diff as there is no indication in the assembly instructions.
One trick that will be handy when trying to close the diff up and the 20t diff gear keeps falling off is to apply 2 small drops of diff oil to the underside and then almost like sticking it down place it back on the main spur gear hey presto it doesn't fall off and you can close up the diff.
Here are a few pictures of the diff's and please note the orientation of the rear diff compared to the front diff very interesting indeed.
all diff's built now its onwards to the 4 shock absorbers these are much like the standard big bore shock absorbers used on many mainstream kits now days. The main reason we see the big bore shockers is due to there ability to provide improved damping and down travel.
Moving forward after completing all 4 shocks as per the manual nothing too special about big bore shocks that most of you haven't already read before.
Front Diff inserted into the diff housing
Up next is the front drive shaft and cvd assembly again some interesting assembly here.
Well there is some really nifty innovations on the front spindle & CVD assembly, The anti roll bar holder is really cool indeed pivitball setup a cool innovation indeed makes a big difference from the standard setup I have always built where you have 2 pivitball holders with a long grub screw in the middle.
Figured out what the black rings are for would help if they were included in the diagrams. they are bearing casings so that you can use smaller bearings if you so choose. Couldn't really see why anyone would want to use different bearings but hey they there if you want to use them.
One thing that really hits home is the sheer amount of engineering that has gone into this car take the rear diff and diff casing for example this is a really interesting evolution on the standard setup. As we see in the picture above it is offset from the centre thus allowing the engine to be more centralised in the car.
|Centre diff assembly again a new evolution in design a mechanical piston design really cool indeed |
So putting the Centre diff together was really easy simply follow the pictures and everything simply slotted together very nicely indeed. Only tweak required was on the up rated disk brakes now standard in the 2011 kit, a small amount of filing was required to ensure they went over the drive cups. The breaks are sprung loaded this will prevent them sticking a really nice touch and effective too.
So with all the rear components now assembled we see the kit mud guards (Piraterc Sticker Spot) very nice addition indeed. Additionally note the rear drive shaft that is completely over to the Left hand side.
Make sure you have some time to concentrate on this part of the build as its something that simply takes time and makes you think. for this build i have the battery located in the front and the radio gear in the rear.
Trying to follow the manual to get the servo's setup correctly proved to be a bit of a challenge. I found myself trying to setup the tray with the servo in different positions before i assembled it with the servo facing backwards. The instructions would be fantastic with some words at this point rather than the diagrams to actually explain what the difference is between forward facing servo and rear facing servo layout choices. I found that the provided servo shims were not enough for what I required as the two servos I have used
One thing that i do think is interesting indeed the radio tray covers do not use the body clip method of securing in place. Instead they are screwed shut a different approach indeed however one thing that i did find a tad strange is the cutouts where the wires enter the respective radio trays that seem to welcome all the dust etc with open arms.
Tip: once you have all you gear assembled and in the appropriate places take some silicone and fill the holes. This will provide some good weather and element proofing to help protect your equipment.
|One thing that i think is rather strange is the sideways mounting of the AMB transponder these devices are meant to lay flat. |
|To archive the best signal reading capability they should be horizontal and not have aluminium between the transponder and the ground. So with this in mind the transponder has been located with the receiver in the rear radio tray. This will ensure that your laps are counted properly. Additionally if you want to put it in the side pocket you will have to cut the lugs off.|
|Moving onto the final stages of the build with the end in sight now lets get the car bolted down onto the chassis first up is the front end nice and simple i quite like the front mud guard as it doubles up as a chassis protector bravo one of the first kits I have see that comes with this included as standard rather than looking to buy an aftermarket product.|
|Looking at the rear again there has been the integration of a chassis guard although the rear has had a slight cut away to include the incorporated chassis guard. The best bit is the diff's are sealed units and this in turn keeps unwanted elements out where they belong rather than causing problems.|
Now we move onto the best bit the artwork and for this review we have managed to get the services of Keith the man behind the KIFOPAINT empire.
Wow what a true work of art and not only has Keith come up with a really cool design he has had his graphics department knock up some fantastic stickers and a matching wing skin to completely finish off the look . There is more to finish the look off a customer set of appropriate decals has been produced. After doing the required cutting out so that the shell fits the car all I want to do is go racing now
What a superb combination of goodies arrived back from the paint shop I love the artwork and the paint job
Body Shell now cutout and mounted
Wing Skin Close up with the relevant and very appropriate logo's I might add
Having a closer look at some of the decals that were made to match the paint job
A big Thank you to the following people as without them there would be no review for you to enjoy reading and to hopefully assist you in procuring your first Agama and Bullet combo then sending your shell to Kifopaint for a first class paint job and perhaps some nice decals and a wing skin or two.
Keith Newton (Kifopaint)
Without your assistance this review would not have been possible.
Please Visit Their Respective web sites by clicking their logo's throughout the review
Tame Racing Driver Recommended Option parts to enhance your racing experience
You will find the team will use most of the tunning items at various points or tracks but not all the time. As it says in the heading tunning item so is used to aid performance to get the optimum from the car. In the majority of applications the team cars hit the track std or as a base setting & are then altered. The few items listed below will be found on the cars as a base setting but are not essential as the car runs great as stock.
- 0812 8x1.2mm Holed tapered piston. These are what most of the team runs as it gives room to adjust rebound rate & pack. With the small holes allows them to be re drilled to all of the useable combinations that we run.
- 1002-G Soft Front wishbone
- 1003-G Soft Rear wishbone, both these wishbones flex more than std so add grip in a low grip situation, are more forgiving on a bumpy track & a must for the cold winter racing.
- 7205 Engine Mount extended, this just adds more stiffness to the chassis to stop flex on the heavy landings.
None of these parts above are essential but add room for tunning & safety. Other items which are a general racing tuning item are roll bars & shock springs. The option part list is growing and will compliment your agama for tunning so take a browse at.
Agama Option Parts Link
Some Good stuff about the car
Its great to see such great enhancements and moves forward in both design and engineering. These guys have launched a very interesting designed car indeed loving the closed differentials and the cleaver utilisation of pivot balls in the anti roll bar design.
The chassis protectors that are incorporated into the kit are a fantastic design enhancement and show that they actually care about your product lasting. Super smooth drive train that will surely enhance all round speed of the buggy.
Simple things like rear mud guards helping to keep things clear from debris make a huge difference. There is the very interesting radio tray design allowing you to locate your electrics as you require.
For me it was a real pleasure to build and I really enjoyed the differences and evolutions experienced along the way I hope that this will allow you to make a proactive choice on your next kit, engine, paint job and decals.
A few little issues experienced along the way
The manual is really basic and the diagrams could be improved to assist with the build, I found some a tad confusing and perhaps even a few words to assist with explaining to you how to assemble the parts in question would make a big difference. These are some recommendations that will only enhance the kit and add to the enjoyment of building a kit.
A missing pin for the front wheel hex adapters a tad disappointing but the issue was quickly resolved and a new one was dispatched along with the missing screws for the anti roll bar.
The only other issue experienced was with one of the cvd drive shaft and it not moving freely when it was assembled due to some excess metal in the way. My dremel made light work of this and the issue was resolved. (I have been advised that this has been addressed so hopefully you will never have one)
Piraterc overall rating 8.5/10
Added: Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Reviewer: Site Admin